Barriloche

The 20 hour bus journey went much quicker than anticipated- helped by snacks, monopoly, good scenery and no snoring men! We arrived in Bariloche, at 5:30pm and were greeted by the blazing sun. This place still had its ski resort vibe despite it being the summer time of the southern hemisphere, with it's surrounding snow capped mountains, wooden chalet buildings and abundance of chocolate, cafes and ski wear shops. Periko hostel was very pretty with the cleanest kitchen and a sparkling oven and best of all we had double rooms. Having been in 4 bedded dorms often with bunk beds for nearly two weeks this was a luxury. We headed out armed with two for one beer vouchers provided by Marco (works in the hostel and apparently learnt his fluent English from you tube!) To celebrate Halloween we dressed in typical English style- as ourselves we headed to Antares bar. The boys drunk a few pints of home made Kelsh beer, Caz two halves of honey beer and myself...Sticking to what I know- A bottle of white wine. Not only was the quantity I drunk a lot more but we have recently found out that wine produced at high altitude, has a higher alcohol percentage and also is Argentian wine is often higher than it states on the bottle to avoid paying the next level of tax! we ended up eating at this bar, (good job for me) then stubbled upon the lost Vikings pub. Caz and I overly excited to find Malibu on the shelve! We met a couple of 30 year old englishmen walking for cancer research all over south America, averaging 15miles per day with their rucksacks, and camping gear on their backs for an entire year. Puts our "travelling" to shame. Now well oiled, we eventually found our way home - rich running back to give the guys 100 pesos. Telling them that even if they ended up spending it on beers they deserved it!

Our second day we awoke to find people walking the streets with face masks on when we looked out our windows. A volcano nearby had erupted in july and was still going the recent wind change had caused the ash to become much worse. Until we stepped outside we didn't realise just how dusty and painful the ash (which felt more like sand) whipping around us was, not to mention it preventing the warmth of the sun either. It did not take long before we took cover in a cafe shop, an excuse to eat again. A chilled out evening at the hostel ready for our next excursion- rafting!


mike and Caz debated with rafting, saying it would be too cold but decided to go ahead with it as not wanting to miss out. Thet were not disappointed! We were picked up and headed up into the mountains, stopping for our second free breafast of the day in a little cabin on the river. Mike was gutted as he was hoping for some eggs but once again it was bread, jam and dulce de Leche. Into our wrestler looking wet suits, making rich's legs looking skinner then ever, and my boobs popping out either side. A few body slams' a safety talk and we were in our raft, the boys at the front, Caz and I at the back. We had 10 rapids ahead of us. I was nearly was thrown out the boat down 'deep throat' and the whole boat nearly flipped down rapid 'relax'. About 1.5 hrs later we had numb feet from the splashes into the boat and only one rapid left to survive. Our guide advised us all to sit at the back of the raft while we were in calm waters. Doing some sneaky bouncing action and pulling a rope that was attached to the front he caused the entire boat to fall into the freezing water apart from Caz and I -wahooo!!! The boys were pulled back into the raft teeth chattering. We then breezed the last rapid and had a BBQ lunch back at the cabin and headed home buzzing.

The next morning we got up early and decided to rent a car for a week to explore the rest of Argentina. We booked it for 6pm that evening. So go fill our day we decided to catch a bus to Puerto Panoelos (about 45m out of town). This proved slightly difficult we first of all didnt realuse we needed a ticket before we got on then could find where to purchase it from! Eventually we got there though and took ourselves for a walk through a 'petrified' forest which seemed to be attacking us. Branches grabbing mike's hair and I managed to lodge a rather large piece of wood into my shin (no sympathy from rich). We found a beautiful clear lake, but only brave enough to paddle up to our knees as the water was sooo cold. On the way back we stopped off a a view point. Having got confidence in ourselves from walking all those steps in salta we stuck our noses up a the stair lift and decided to walk, I mean climb it! Error. Very hot and sweaty and Caz not impressed she chose to wear her Birkenstocks that day. As ways it was worth it though for the view. A noodle take away and we began our first leg of our road trip- first stop el bonson.

Salta the beautiful

The bus journey from San Pedro is listed on google as one of the wolds greatest drives and it had our undivided attention. We were top, front of the bus too so a good seat to watch the world go by. As soon as we left San Pedro we had a border crossing into Argentina. Learning our lesson from our last crossing into Chile, we almost took it a step too far the other way and tried to get tuna sardines and nikki's mangos over. Unfortunately the mangoes didn't make it (see last blog pic) but the tuna sardines did! Hurah!

We arrive 11hrs later at 9pm in Salta. Mike has become our unofficial hostel booker and this time came up trumps with Prisa Mata. Greeted by Damian-a fit Argentinian Johnny Depp look a like, hammocks, outside areas, funky tunes, fairy lights everywhere, and a massive kitchen, we were looking forward to seeing it in the morning. Little did we know over the next few days this hostel would feel like home, and we would make friends while staying here.

So our first morning here we woke to a naff breakie of mini toast and jam. The lonely planet had told is of a walk up to the city viewpoint which we decided to head out to. We wandered around the city for a bit first, and didn't really see anything nice. Tacky shops and dirty street, we headed out for the viewpoint pretty quickly. 1070 steps awaited us to the top (or a cable car but thats cheating) so despite the heat and tired feet we sun creamed up and set off. I counted the steps as we went giving frequent updates to the others as we neared the top. By my calculations we walked 1170 but what a view! Sweaty and thirsty we had some well earner overpriced bevvies at the top and sat for a while as time passed us by. We decided to face the walk back down. On our return Prisa Mata was a hive of activity. Italians, Aussies, Germans all buzzing around. We stayed and swung in the hammocks for a while chatting away swapping stories. (It was also time for Rich's first tash trim.) We learnt on Fridays Damians friend Maxi, the friedly rasta, cooked for the hostel. It was cheap and smelled amazing, but we were looking forward to the night we had planned at a restaurant we'd read about on trip advisor. La Casona Del Molino. After a few hours wandering around the city and discovering many new areas including the Argentinian benedorm, and asking many locals for directions, we realized we were going in circles and ended up back at the hostel to book a taxi. We were miles away, but ended up at a house in the middle of no where, each room converted and packed to the rafters. We managed to scramble for a tiny table and awaited a waiter. It was full of locals busily chatting and was difficult to know what was going on. It was a chaotic place but with great energy and good smells wafting through the many rooms. The table next to us soon realized our foreign roots and the proud father introduced his daughter who spoke great English. She was lovely, and enjoyed chatting through the night giving us tips of what to order...bonus as the Spanish menu was a minefield. They even gave us one of their tables when our food came. Everyone is so friendly. Out came the Empanadas. A local finger food, basically like a pastie but nicer. Amazing! On our new friends top advice we ordered three each, and a corn type sweet side that was steamed in leaves. It was great food and good to eat some new local dishes. As soon as we finished our food the night began. One of the tables in the room was full of local men and women, who whipped out guitars, tambourines, drums, recorders, all sorts. This was what we'd read about! They burst into song so loud you can't talk and everyone had a huge sing along. When we picked our jaws off the tables we were soon clapping and tapping along out of time to the tunes. One lady did a solo with a beautiful voice. Each room was having it's own entertainment with beats coming from every corner. We left about 4am, ears still ringing we left them still in full swing. What a place.

Day two Mike and I woke early and walked to the local supermarket for breakie to take back for a sleeping Rich and Nikki. Chocolate toe nails and yoghurt has become a firm favorite of our trip. Today we planned to walk to the bus station to book our next destination, stopping on the way at a local market for some more Empanadas. We're converted and sat in the park to eat our way through them. When we got back to Prisa Mata Damian and the rasta Maxi were taking his little boy Benjamin to some of their favorite hideaways by the river and offered to take us, our new friend Andrew the ozzy and the Italian lady with them, so we piled into their cars and off we go. Mike and I with Damian, Nik and Rich with Maxi, who's car horm involuntarily beeped each time he turned his wheels. Benjamin was sat on Maxi's knee (no car seats) and soon nodded off sprawled over Rich until we got to our first stop. It was a small walk when we got to a hidden water pool with a mini waterfall. We pile into the freezing water and chill out for a while by the water. As the sun started to get lower we head to their second hot spot by the river. It was lovely. Very quiet, in the middle of no where. We stayed there a while, watched the sun go down, and Maxi got a fire going. They were cooking for the hostel again that night and so we headed back about 9pm. More people had arrived when we got back and so a party began with everyone getting to know each other further. We met Mollys lookalike, and had our first asado - an argentinian BBQ. It was a meat feast but still not the Argentinean steak we've been dreaming of.

Our third day we chilled out. Pretty tired and due another big bus journey to Cordoba ahead, it was also elections so alot of places were closed. I had itchy feet and wanted some retail therapy, so headed to the small mall we'd passed a few days earlier. Mike decided to come with me, urged on by the promise of a macdonalds coffee, and it was so nice to feel a sense of normality after weeks of trips, treks and tours. I bought a dress, and went back to the hostel triumphant of my little day out. Rich and Nikki's hungry bellies urged them out of the hostel mid afternoon to the same mall. I went with them and stayed with Nikki while she shopped also. Two dresses later she was equally as happy with her purchases and we left Salta later that night, with farewells to our new friends and adios to our favorite hostel so far.

Love Caz xx