The next morning after a surprisingly good rest we went down and was greeted by an awesome breakie spread. We met Tow here, a cambodian guy living in London who decided to come slong with us to see Christ the Redeemer. First on our list to see. We found the bus stop and managed to get the right one to the tourist hotspot. We had to wait in line for a while, melting in the process, before getting the cable car up to the top. It wasnt the sunniest of days, but we still had a pretty good view over Rio, and were pretty impressed with the giant christ looking over the city. We stayed up there for a while, taking in the city. Later in the afternoon we made our way back to Books, for a mid afternoon shower in an attempt to cool down, before heading out again this time to Ipanema. We were looking for a sushi restaraunt recommended to us by a friend back in Cordoba. It took us a while to find, but the all you can eat got us very excited, ready to fill our boots. Our waitor helped us order, and plate after plate soon made its way to our table. Hot philadelphia a south america sushi special and it was delicious. We reordered and were stuffed within no time. Id say we had a good go at getting our moneys worth :-) After a long wait at the bus stop and no bus, we flagged down a taxi that would take 5 of us. He not only would take 5passe gers, but also completely disregarded all red lights and general rules of the road. We tipped him pretty well!
The next day we planned to go to sugar loaf mountain, but a gloomy overcast day steered us to a giant shopping mall. We killed a few hours here, meeting back at 6. Mike andi were determined to get into the christmas spirit and decided to go see the New Years Eve xmas movie. Nikki and Rich not keen they headed home. Lucky for them as the movie was terrible, so we rejoined them for drinks at Books.
Day three, we were set to go on a tour of the favelas. Famous for their rough reputation of guns drugs and violence we were a bit aprehensive. Leaving cameras behind except my point and shoot we were in a mini bus picking up others before geting to a line up of mopeds. Instructed to get on the back, they would take us to the top of the favela, amd we would walk back down. Ok sure, nothing to worry about here, at least they had helmets for us. I got on first, helmet only just secured amd he was off, nikki rich mike and all soon in the distance mounting their own motor taxis. Ducking and waeving through the streets, overtaking busses into oncoming cars, mounting curbs and generally making me fear for my life, we pulled up after what felt like forever, knuckles white. He left me on the pavement awaiting the other taxis amd i was releaved to see them all pull up equally amused by the start of our tour.
Next we see a police van drive into the favela armed with massive guns. Ok..this was pretty real. Our guide set off, heading off the main street into the dark alley. Feeling a bit on edge we follow him, taking it all in. He leads us up some stairs to a roof top. Here we got a look at the vast favela we were now stood in. Buildings scrambled together ontop of each other, colouful roof tops, junk everywhere, kids playing. Over a few roofs was a little boy flying a kite he was very skilled..it was so high you could hardly see it. Its sad to see such a happy little boy in such a hopeless environment. It was at this moment we looked down to the street below we'd just been on, and saw 10 - 15 police pointing their guns into the window of the building we were in! They moved on and we headed back to the narrow street. We bought cakes from a small bakery (not exactly skeltons but very delicious) then some kids played drums on plastic buckts and tins while a 3ish yr old boy danced for us. We tipped heavily, being watched by others in the favelas. Apparently them seeing the positive impact tourists have to their favela, encourages them to let the police into the favela and get them under control and not run by the drug lords. It was nice to feel we were helping them in a small way. It was shocking to see the sewers running under the streets, and the tiny kids with mucky faces wandering bare feet. We soon passed the same police this time at street level, still looking for their wanted man or woman. Next we saw houses that had collapsed, kids toys still visible in the rubble. One house was being pushed over by a growning tree and only connected to the ground on one corner. Due to collapse at any time, with a teenage girls bedroom in view to us, music blating out, posters on the wall. Children in the street below who will have no chance when this falls. Finally we saw a childs day care centre, funded by the company who was doing our tour. Its nice to see the money helping in a small way but felt very humbled by how little hope these people seem to have. Children 13 having children.
We got back and planned to go to the infamour Lappa street party that happens every friday. Mike and i went for sushi round the corner from Books which was delicious, then headed back to books to start the party. Strawbeery daquiris going down very well we were soon having a hostel party. We all headed to the streets later on about 11. It was mental. Rich, poor, white, black, everyone and anyone was out dancing like no one was watching. Brilliant. We got drinks from a street vendor which were 3/4 alcohol, toppped up with ice and a splash of mixer. Phew...they were like rocket fuel. It didnt take many before we noticed nikki and rich had disappeared. We stayed out with the others before heading back to the hostel to use the loo (festival portaloos a breeze compared to these) and finding rich and nikki already back. The rocket cocktails had taken their toll. Nikki puking in the loo, mike suddenly gushed on the stairs while rich and i stood amused at the garnetts lack of staying power. Finally i have beaten a the garnetts at drinking!
Next day we headed to Ilha grande. A hot spot island a few hours drive and boat from Rio. No cars allowed on the giant island, we had to walk to our hostel with our bags. It was a grueling trek, in mid day sun up hill. I had to stop and let the others go ahead while i had a word with myself to keep going. I eventually made it there, finding the others stripped to their unders bathing in the stream in the garden. It was a stunning settling of natural beauty. Our rooms was gorgeous with fresh white sheets and a hammock outside it had been worth the effort to get there. We went down to the beach to catch the last of the afternoon sun for half an hour. We passed a nice looking noodle bar on the way down which we returned to for dinner. It was delicious. Very happy we headed back to our haven. Nikki mike and i snuggled up in bed to watch One Day (nikki and i had recently finished the book) while rich read in the hammock outside. Our movie was disturbed a few times zapping mosquitoes (id become a bit obsessed at hunting them down) and a giant cockroach, killed by nikki with bug spray till it couldnt move for the coating it had of the white stuff on its back. Gross!
The next day we were pleased to see beautiful blue skies as it was forcast rain. We headed to the beach and managed to get free beach chairs. We flopped out all day, rich and mike under brollies, me and nik baking in the sun. Rich convinced we would burn telling us how sillywe were, we felt smug when it was mike who burnt his feet from his shadey seat. When we got back the heavens opened. Tropical rain, we had to leg it down to the village for tea. We went to a restaraunt Rich had seen the night before, and took refuge under cover. We had our first wi esince the lappa street party, just about recovered, and had a lovely meal.
The next day we got a local boat taxi to a beach further round the island. Lopez Mendez. It was a short 20 mins ride and we pulled up to a beach, then a short walk to get to Lopez Mendez. It was beautiful with a capital B. Ive never seen water so clear..you could see people through the waves, and fish swimming in the clear water. Ive never seen such amazing sea, and the long stretch of beach was equally as perfect. It was a scorching day, so we didnt last long in the sun before we kept going back to the water. Any excuse! If only we'd found it a few days before, a real hidden gem of the island we had fallen in love with.
We left about 5:30 as we'd arranged for the boat taxi to come back at 6:00. I started to feel a bit weird on the bus journey back, and when we arrived at our hostel i was feeling rough. We headed down for tea planning to go back for noodles, but it was closed so we found a pizza place with a wood burning oven. It was delicious, though we were all beaten by there size and took doggy bags home. I went straught to bed feeling rough, and the others chilled outside before hitting the sack.
The next day i was still off and opted to stay under cover at the hotel, while nik and rich headed to the near by beach, and mike staying out the sun with me. Late afternoon we headed back to catch the boat to the mainland amd back to Rio. So pleased we had visited Ilha Grande and fully recomending it to anyone who visits Rio. Its well worth it!
We arrived back at Rio, and had re booked into Books. Our first day back we set off to walk round Santa Teresa and Lappa. Two areas we'd been keen to see before and nt got round to. It was a scorching hot day and we started off walking to the lappa steps. Bright coloured and worth a see, we walked to the top amd were wet through with sweat when we got to the top. It wasnt a pretty sight. Jumping from shade to shade we continued to head uphill looking for Santa Teresa. It was very high above Rio, and an old looking area which didnt seem to have a centre. We stopped for a drink, and nikki read to us about Ipanema and Leblon which sounded nice, so we headed down to catch a bus. It was a much more commercial area with shops everywhere, and a really nice shopping mall we wandered around. We decided to split up for the afternoon, mike and i getting lost on the bus and ending up where we started after what felt like an hour on the bus. Nikki and rich made it to sugar loaf mountain for some good views and pics but got a little lost too on the way back and seemed to have walked half rio getting back.
We met back at the hostel - this was our last night, and there was a Jazz street party happening we had to go see. We decided to have another trip to mine and mikes favourite sushi bar 'Lappamaki' for the third time. It was delicious as always, getting backto the hostel to find everyone had already go e to the jazz. We headed off after them, finding the party full of locals in a hidden square down the back streets of Rio. It was a funky find, guys with plastic bags full of ice and beer wandering selling it to everyone, jugglers practicing their skills. Great way to spend our last night.
We headed back to Books while nik and rich crashed and mike and I packed to leave. The end of three months together is the end of an era. Amazing memories we will remember forever and very sad to say goodbye. We woke them for a quick kiss and cuddle bye before we headed off teary eyed off to our next chapter. Farewell Nik and Rich..we miss you already.xx
getting teary eyed reading this...
ReplyDeletewhat an amazing trip- could not have wished for 2 more perfect people to travel with.
love you guys xxx